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Bermudagrass


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#1 Dude

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 07:00 AM

I've Bermudagrass for an encroaching neighbor. Fortunately, the neighbor does not mind my efforts in controlling it, whether on that side or my side of turf. If anyone else has already been-there done-that with this specific unwanted grass successfully, did you do so using one of the below herbicides I've quoted below from the web?

These herbicides include the active ingredient sethoxydim (Grass Getter), fluazifop (Fusilade, Ornamec, and Grass-B-Gon), or clethodim (Envoy). Fusilade and Envoy are only available for sale to licensed pesticide applicators, the others are sold in most retail garden outlets. This is not a complete list of all retail products; look for similar herbicides with the same active ingredient.


Update (looking for your input to improve the attack plan): I've completely cut my front yard out, a couple inches of dirt included. Rearranged my sprinklers so the flower beds are less likely to be watered other than from the drip system. Now, I know my dominant beast is not Crabgrass cause I can clearly see the rhizomes from Bermuda. Cum Spring next year, when there's foliage, I plan to use a non-selective weed killer like Roundup and continue to do so through Summer. Then, when the intense heat is past in Fall, I plan to mix a couple inches of mushroom compost into the top soil so as to give the then sowed Class Act 2 Tall Fescue Grass Seed a better leading edge on taking hold and thickening before the weeds start growing in Spring the following year.

#2 folsom500

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 11:21 AM

Update (looking for your input to improve the attack plan): I've completely cut my front yard out, a couple inches of dirt included. Rearranged my sprinklers so the flower beds are less likely to be watered other than from the drip system. Now, I know my dominant beast is not Crabgrass cause I can clearly see the rhizomes from Bermuda. Cum Spring next year, when there's foliage, I plan to use a non-selective weed killer like Roundup and continue to do so through Summer. Then, when the intense heat is past in Fall, I plan to mix a couple inches of mushroom compost into the top soil so as to give the then sowed Class Act 2 Tall Fescue Grass Seed a better leading edge on taking hold and thickening before the weeds start growing in Spring the following year.


After hitting it with Roundup or other non selective weed killer for a couple of monthly doses- when it gets hot I would suggest solarizing the entire area to make sure everything is dead. This is simple using Clear ( actually not really clear but NOT black) plastic sheeting cover the entire area for a couple of hot months. Use rocks to hold it down. You can even do this if there are some living grasses still showing.

Another great  day in the adventure of exploration and sight.

 

 

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#3 Dude

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 04:43 AM

After hitting it with Roundup or other non selective weed killer for a couple of monthly doses- when it gets hot I would suggest solarizing the entire area to make sure everything is dead. This is simple using Clear ( actually not really clear but NOT black) plastic sheeting cover the entire area for a couple of hot months. Use rocks to hold it down. You can even do this if there are some living grasses still showing.


Great, will do that, very happy to learn it bakes weed seeds and seedlings too.

#4 Dude

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 05:34 AM

Well, I'm trying to figure out how to best install a rhizome barrier to be pro-active as best I can with my straight 31' stretch of shared front yard. The stolons creeping over the top will be visibly maintained and the seeds, well, hopefully they'll be choked out with Tall Fescue.

In cutting the trench, I see they don't go below the 4" rich top soil. Nonetheless, I'm going 1' down. I initially thought of using concrete or roof flashing, but have decided to go with white polyethylene. An 1/8" thick 4' x 8' sheet cut into 4 1' x 8' s is about $60 at Tap Plastics and I'll need a 5th strip to cover the 3 3' overlaps, that 5th strip is probably another $20+. To finish off the top edge, I'm thinking I can screw the 1/8" poly into the broad side of 1/4" thick redwood bender boards. When all done, there will be a visible 3/8" thick separator at ground level.

What do you think?

I really wasn't wanting to spend this kind of cash but I have Bermudagrass as a permanent neighbor and the job must be right if it's going to be done at all. I'm afraid the more cost effective Vinyl Deck Flashing at Home Depot will just not last long underground. But, then again, maybe all I need is for it to last just one or two growing season so my grass has that leading edge to thicken and choke it all out, less the stolons, of course. Hmm, maybe I'm getting too crazy here???

Decisions, decisions, decisions!

EDIT: I should mention that this is all so I can drop the thought of using herbicides, here or there. Hmm, maybe this stuff triple folded and not worry about the exposed portion since it's so thin and flexible... let the mower decide the height.

#5 olivia

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 08:15 AM

Well, I'm trying to figure out how to best install a rhizome barrier to be pro-active as best I can with my straight 31' stretch of shared front yard. The stolons creeping over the top will be visibly maintained and the seeds, well, hopefully they'll be choked out with Tall Fescue.

In cutting the trench, I see they don't go below the 4" rich top soil. Nonetheless, I'm going 1' down. I initially thought of using concrete or roof flashing, but have decided to go with white polyethylene. An 1/8" thick 4' x 8' sheet cut into 4 1' x 8' s is about $60 at Tap Plastics and I'll need a 5th strip to cover the 3 3' overlaps, that 5th strip is probably another $20+. To finish off the top edge, I'm thinking I can screw the 1/8" poly into the broad side of 1/4" thick redwood bender boards. When all done, there will be a visible 3/8" thick separator at ground level.

What do you think?

I really wasn't wanting to spend this kind of cash but I have Bermudagrass as a permanent neighbor and the job must be right if it's going to be done at all. I'm afraid the more cost effective Vinyl Deck Flashing at Home Depot will just not last long underground. But, then again, maybe all I need is for it to last just one or two growing season so my grass has that leading edge to thicken and choke it all out, less the stolons, of course. Hmm, maybe I'm getting too crazy here???

Decisions, decisions, decisions!

EDIT: I should mention that this is all so I can drop the thought of using herbicides, here or there. Hmm, maybe this stuff triple folded and not worry about the exposed portion since it's so thin and flexible... let the mower decide the height.

My motto after years of maintaining landscaping on my own is water, fertilize and mow it. If it is green then enjoy it. Overseed in the fall/winter if there is enough bermuda to turn the lawn brown when it dies back in the cold months. Don't stress over having (or not having) a particular type of lawn. I will try to hand-weed dandelion plants as they show up and did use a herbicide/fertilizer at the beginning, but once the lawn was relatively "weed" free put on a fertilizer 2x a yr., water, and mow at a height that requires once-a-week mowing during the growing season. The bermuda in my lawn blends nicely with all the other grasses. It just is too much trouble to try to get the single-grass lawn and eradicate the "undesirables". Just one mans opinion...

#6 Dude

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 08:29 AM

But I so want that pristine yard I've always dreamed of and, in Folsom, it's the perfect time. Just ordered the Moisture Barrier for under $20 at Home Depot, it'll have to do.




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