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#1 Dude

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 11:45 AM

Hi,

Anyone have a recommendation for an electrician to install a "vented bath fant" and a "dehumidistat controller". No fan or controller existed before and I would like it vented out where the vent below the eaves is rather than the tiled roof in a single story with a vaulted ceiling?

Thanks.

#2 4thgenFolsomite

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 12:14 PM

Hi,

Anyone have a recommendation for an electrician to install a "vented bath fant" and a "dehumidistat controller". No fan or controller existed before and I would like it vented out where the vent below the eaves is rather than the tiled roof in a single story with a vaulted ceiling?

Thanks.


sounds more like you need a contractor. electricians don't usually cut into drywall. good idea though, your project. I'm just not sure you can vent the bathroom into the attic. but I don't see why not. after all, is that what a whole house fan does?

by the way, the only electricians we will use now are Lakevue Electric in Orangevale. Honest, expert and reasonable.
Knowing the past helps deciphering the future.

#3 Dude

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 01:50 PM

Thanks! A contractor it is than.

I'm actually wanting to run the 8" duct to the 3.5" x 22" soffit vent so the air exits directly to the exterior provided I find a way to attach the duct so it's completely sealed to the soffit vent which is about 6' away.

#4 (MaxineR)

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 04:39 PM

Thanks! A contractor it is than.

I'm actually wanting to run the 8" duct to the 3.5" x 22" soffit vent so the air exits directly to the exterior provided I find a way to attach the duct so it's completely sealed to the soffit vent which is about 6' away.


Please let us know what contactor you chose and what it cost you. :)

We have friends that are looking for a bathromm fan to be installed too.

#5 caligirlz

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 06:50 PM

I use Matt Donato for all my work. Trustworthy, reliable & reasonable. 916-837-7574

#6 The Average Joe

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 09:33 PM

They will probably use a smaller ducting and run it to the side of your house with a weather flap like this one:
Posted Image
This will help keep backdraft out when the fan is not running. They do make an inline one, Posted Image
but it is not as common. You definitely want some sort of backflow prevention if you run straight to the under eave vent.
Occasionally, you cannot fit a fan depending on the location and spacing from roofline.

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#7 Dude

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 12:26 AM

Caligirlz,
Thanks, I will call Matt.

The Average Joe,
Thanks, but the only exterior wall I have doesn't even have an inch between the roof line and top side of the ceiling. So, no wall space at all. But those In-Line Duct Back Draft Blockers you shared would be a wise addition.

The manufacturer of the fan, Broan L300, which require 8" ducting, suggested I use their Duct Transition pictured below. Problem is, it's only 3.25" x 14", a surface area of 45.5 sq in. An 8" round duct has 50 sq in. The 0.5 sq in loss doesn't sound significant but considering I'm squeezing air from a round to a narrow rectangle, I would want additional square footage. not less. The 3.5" x 22" soffit has 77 sq in, that extra 22 sq in would be well deserved.

So where on earth, or the WWW, can I find a Duct Transition that's 3.5" x (15"-22")?

I may have to look into having one fabricated... geeze, maybe I should cut that tiled roof...LOL

From Googling, this 3.25" x 14" is the largest I could find.
Posted Image

#8 Dude

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 10:45 AM

Matt was just here.

To my surprise, he says simply ducting it to an open space in the attic is more than sufficient and that, per todays standards, only the clothes dryer need be vented directly to the exterior.

Wow! What do you think?

#9 4thgenFolsomite

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 10:56 AM

Matt was just here.

To my surprise, he says simply ducting it to an open space in the attic is more than sufficient and that, per todays standards, only the clothes dryer need be vented directly to the exterior.

Wow! What do you think?


I think you have a contractor and will soon have a new vent!
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#10 Dude

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 08:02 AM

With all due respect. I think it's crazy to vent anything into the attic, especially warm moist air.

What I've found is that code requires it be vented to outside air and since air in a vented attic is considered to be so, it is being recommended and practiced by some.

That warm moist air will, in time, and especially in colder weather, Folsom or not, surely condense and eventually compact the fluffy Rxx insulation down to a lower rating and, worse yet, perhaps start a mold farm...yikes.

Any extra expense to ensure it is directed to the true exterior of the home would be well advised, IMHO.

#11 (MaxineR)

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 02:57 PM

With all due respect. I think it's crazy to vent anything into the attic, especially warm moist air.

What I've found is that code requires it be vented to outside air and since air in a vented attic is considered to be so, it is being recommended and practiced by some.

That warm moist air will, in time, and especially in colder weather, Folsom or not, surely condense and eventually compact the fluffy Rxx insulation down to a lower rating and, worse yet, perhaps start a mold farm...yikes.

Any extra expense to ensure it is directed to the true exterior of the home would be well advised, IMHO.



I wouldnít vent bathroom air into an attic, as per the reasons you stated.

That has been considered by our friend who would also like a vent fan for his bathroom.
But he came to the same conclusion, that it wouldnít be wise.

Sometimes, itís better to do it the hard way, than to try and take shortcuts you might regret.

And donít forget, that many home owners want to see receipts of work done on a house, when they are looking to buy. Iíve run into some homes where the owner did work on a house that wasnít to code. Not a good thing.

You just might want to sell your house some day. :)

#12 Dude

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Posted 10 August 2012 - 10:53 AM

Well, it's done. Just finished installing it completely except for the roof vent. A licensed roofer is coming to cut and install a roof cap/jack along with insulated ducting directly above the fan, just a couple feet up, for $250 ASAP.

I'm now wondering though if I should use a Whirlybird 12 in. Mill Finish Internally Braced Wind Turbine instead of a regular roof jack.

BTW, all contractors wanted to mount the fan in an a more easily accessed area in my bath (remember my ceiling is vaulted), along with a more easily accessed line drop for the switch, and wanted to vent it to the attic space. The only one that was willing to vent it out the soffit told me to call him back when I got it done first...LOL

So, I did it myself with the switch where I wanted at the entrance of the bath (rather than at the opposite end), and have decided it's best to vent it directly straight up through the curved concrete tiled roof.

#13 (The Dude)

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Posted 10 August 2012 - 12:21 PM

Well, it's done. Just finished installing it completely except for the roof vent. A licensed roofer is coming to cut and install a roof cap/jack along with insulated ducting directly above the fan, just a couple feet up, for $250 ASAP.

I'm now wondering though if I should use a Whirlybird 12 in. Mill Finish Internally Braced Wind Turbine instead of a regular roof jack.

BTW, all contractors wanted to mount the fan in an a more easily accessed area in my bath (remember my ceiling is vaulted), along with a more easily accessed line drop for the switch, and wanted to vent it to the attic space. The only one that was willing to vent it out the soffit told me to call him back when I got it done first...LOL

So, I did it myself with the switch where I wanted at the entrance of the bath (rather than at the opposite end), and have decided it's best to vent it directly straight up through the curved concrete tiled roof.


Get the whirlybird

#14 Dude

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 07:27 AM

I must have been tired! Putting that on a bath fan duct isn't a good idea, it would draw air from the bath rather than the attic, like it's intended to do.

#15 Dude

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 12:56 PM

The 8 inch x 2 foot duct was easy but what a headache finding an 8 inch roof jack.

Found the "sub-base" at Pacific Supply, Rancho Cordova.
The "lead based/galvanized cone + cap" at the same but in North Highlands.
With not quite enough free air area on this type of cap, I'm replacing it with this one for 308 CFM.

I ended up hiring Joe Maggini (ref. by Dewitt at Elliott Homes) to cut the roof and install the jack for $150 this morning.




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